Shower Glass Tips
TIP 1 Do not design curbs that approach buttresses at an angle. "Hinge Bind" may occur, making it impossible for the door to operate. |
TIP 2 Very tall stream shower openings require a secondary piece of glass (transom), or the soffit can be framed lower to fill the gap. |
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Always design curbs so that they approach buttresses at a 90 degree angle. |
Framed products over 78" require transoms. Frameless products over 84" require transoms. |
TIP 3 Mind your Seats and Curbs! |
TIP 4 Take the right angle to cut cost. |
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TIP 5 Shower soffits must plumb down precisely footprint to the of the lower curbs. Failure to address this issue will produce disappointing results. |
TIP 6 Never position body sprays opposite an enclosure door or other opening. |
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Always position body sprays so that they are directed towards tiled walls. |
TIP 7 Don't Lose Your Temper! |
TIP 8 If you are planning a frameless enclosure, do not use raised, decorative tile on any part of the door swing area. |
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TIP 9 Don't Use Glass Tiles! |
TIP 10 Overhangs near door closings create problem gaps, resulting in leakage, unsightly fillers or worse... a return visit from an irritated tile installer to remove the overhang! |
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TIP 11 Shower Curb Pitch |
TIP 11 Shower Curb Pitch |
Out-pitched curb spills water out onto the bathroom floor.
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Too much pitch causes door gaskets to bind or chafe resulting in premature wear.
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Dead level curb results in standing water... a sure catalyst for mold and mildew.
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Pitch between 3/16" and 1/4" is ideal for shedding water back to the shower drain.
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TIP 12 The face of any rise where a swing door closes should be perfectly plumb; otherwise a costly pattern cut door may be required. |
TIP 13 Avoid "Icicle" Panels |
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Play it safe... yield no less than 5" of finished tile to your frontal glass door or panels.
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